Shifting Sands: A Look Inside the Pyramids of Giza

The ancient Egyptians have always fascinated me. I remember first learning about the process of mummification in grade 3 and 9-year-old me was enthralled instead of being terrified. The recent chain of events have given me enough time to revisit many of my interests. I found a free course on The Pyramids of Giza by Harvard and jumped at the opportunity to learn more. 

The course is taught by the Professor of Egyptology at Harvard, Dr. Peter Der Manuelian and it is always a treat to learn from a teacher who is so passionate about their subject. He is also working on The Giza Project to make all the data collected from the site available for both the scholars and the laypersons. The driving force behind this initiative has been the preservation of the archaeological evidence and Egyptian heritage, which is susceptible to natural and human damage. Also, so many of the artifacts are now in museums all over the world, so the Giza Project is essentially a one-stop exhibit where you can see everything in its rightful place. 

A 3D reconstructed image of a tomb discovered in Giza. The hieroglyphs and structure has been restored to its original state

The course only focuses on the Fourth Dynasty of the Ancient Egyptian Empire. Three kings from that era, namely Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure, are buried in Giza and they had their tombs built in the shape of a pyramid. We learn about the artifacts, inscriptions and tomb structures found in the pyramids and the cemeteries surrounding them where the high ranking officials and the king''s subjects were buried. 

This image shows the Western cemetery which is on the west of Khufu's (i.e. the largest)
pyramid 

One of the videos highlighted the mysterious reserve heads which are stone statues found in mastaba tombs of high ranking officials from the Fourth Dynasty in Giza. There were 40 discoveries made in total. The heads were found on the ground and have gathered much interest for their amazing depiction of the individualistic facial features of their owners. Most of the reserve heads are in good condition but a few seem to have undergone intentional damage either to the ears or nostrils, and there is often a line going across the back of the head. 

Some of the reserve heads found at Giza including those that were were intentionally damaged. Notice the ear/nose been knocked off on a few.

There are many theories surrounding these stone works and why they were placed in the tombs. Many say that they were supposed to act as an additional carrier for the spirits of the tomb owners. However, there has been no evidence to support this claim and it is basically conjecture. 

I believe the reserve heads acted as a storage device for the memories of their owners. Hence, only the head was carved in stone. They could help the spirits remember everything from their life on Earth. The damage might have been from grave robbers or enemies of the royal family who wanted to try to access those memories and learn their secrets. 

A lot of archaeology is using the limited evidence to connect the pieces and formulate a theory. I am only using the knowledge I have gained from this course to hypothesize. Who knows what the statuary actually represented? My guess is as good as theirs (although, theirs is obviously a more educated one).

It Only Takes One

I seldom find someone whose company I enjoy but that doesn't mean I am lonely because I love spending time on my own. I used to read books or watch movies in my alone time but recently I've started going out on walks with me, myself and I. I started doing this after moving into the on-campus housing at NUST because:

From one of those walks, admiring the beautifully built campus

1. The weather is usually nice in Islamabad and the campus is a safe space

2. I needed fresh air

3. My friends were either unavailable or lived off-campus

I discovered that I was unable to walk at a leisurely pace because 4-years of traveling on public transport during my undergrad had turned me into a cautious and brisk walker (avoiding sleazy men on the street and running after buses does that to you). So these walks were always short 30-minute trysts. 

When I came to Arizona on a research internship, I wanted to explore as many places as possible during my short stay. There was a group of Pakistani students with me but we often had conflicting schedules and I never reached that stage of spontaneous hangouts with my American colleagues, so naturally that led me to venture out alone. A collection of my wonderful and often reckless solo adventures follows:

Brief Trip to the Marketplace

Tempe Marketplace

I decided to check out a sale at Ulta Beauty and paid a heavy price for it. It was already 3 pm and I thought a short trip to the local marketplace was doable. I intended to get on the bus before sundown because even though this is America, a girl out at night all by her lonesome is uncommon. I don't know where the time went but by the time I was done roaming around it was already 8 pm. So I made my way to the bus stop to catch the bus going South. I didn't realize the bus that goes North also picks up passengers from the same shelter. A bus arrived after 20 minutes by which time I was desperate to get back so I blindly boarded without checking the route. A few stops went by and that is when the alarms in my head started going off. I still waited because the roads all look the same and hoped maybe I was on the right bus but a quick look at Google Maps told me we're going in the wrong direction. 

Marketplace at night

So me being the idiot that I am, got off at the next stop rather than asking the driver for the safest way to get home. The next stop just happened to be a poorly lit road but I comforted myself with the fact that there was a steady stream of cars rushing by. All that was shot to hell when the only other lady on the bus said to me, "Be safe out there". Now I was out on the road giving myself anxiety trying to figure out if the lady said it as a random goodbye or was it because the area is notorious for it's high crime rate. I crossed the road and checked the bus schedule which said the next bus is 20 mins away. 

There was a place called called Oakland next to the bus-stop and it looked like a housing complex so I thought "Nothing to worry about. There is going to be a security guard up there." But it turns out to be the office of a construction company which is as deserted as you would expect one to be on a Sunday night. Twenty minutes passed and I kept comforting myself thinking, "Five more minutes and then I order a Lyft". (Side note: No one I knew there had a car so couldn't really call someone.) There were no pedestrians on that road and the cars were going too fast to even see me so it wasn't as scary as it sounds. 

The bus arrived 8 minutes later and I breathed a sigh of relief! The adventure didn't end there. I still had to get off at a Lightrail Station and travel one stop to get home. But there were other people waiting there with me, at least. Shortly after I heard sirens in the distance and not one, not two, not three, but four fire-trucks parked on the road next to the station. To top it off, half a dozen police cars were rushing down the boulevard. But I was oblivious to everything happening around me because even if the train is delayed I was only a mile away from the apartment. A disheveled man in his mid-40s asked me if he could borrow my phone to call someone and surprise-surprise I said yes. "There are firemen parked nearby so he won't actually run away with my phone", I rationalized. He made a call and said something like "I been waiting at McClintock for half an hour. Where you at?" He returned my phone with it smelling like cigarettes. The train pulled up shortly after and I got on. The five-minute walk from the train station to my apartment felt like it would never end but eventually my adventurous shopping trip did conclude with me getting back at 9.30 pm.

The 10-mile Bike Ride

The Grid bike

In the first week of April, the city of Tempe, celebrated Bike to Work week which was an attempt to promote the healthy and carbon neutral mode of transportation i.e. cycling. To encourage more people to bike to work, the bicycle sharing app, Grid Bike offered a free 7-day pass to it's users. To me it sounded like a great opportunity to get back on the road so one particular Sunday when I had nothing planned I thought to myself "Why not bike to the bookstore I've been meaning to go to."

The map said it's only 5.6 miles away which would be a 33 minute ride. I filled a water bottle, kept a snack bar and took off. It was a sunny day but the wind resistance helped me cool off. There were so many sights to see that I kept stopping to take pictures and since it was sweltering hot I had to frequently pause for a drink of water. I always say the best way to really see a city is on a bike because you're not confined by a metallic car frame and closer to the ground. I'm not gonna lie, part of my motivation for completing this journey was that there was a Krispy Kreme on the route so it was like hitting two birds with one stone. 

Something fascinating I came across on my way

At the donut shop I had some trouble locking the bike so I had to keep one eye on the door in case some crazy person tried to steal it. I bought a chocolate glazed donut with sprinkles and decided I'd eat it once I arrive at the destination.  On my way I spotted a junkyard with cars lying on top of each other very reminscent of Ed, Edd and Eddy so I took a small detour to get a closer look. The gate was open but I didn't want to go in there alone so I settled for a distant look.

The junkyard

I kept riding and didn't even realize I'm almost at the bookstore. I almost bumped into a right-turning car in the process (because I keep forgetting that in America, you can make a right turn even at a red a light) I checked the time thinking it must have been only a 40 minute ride and I thought maybe my watch had stopped working because it showed me that 90 minutes had passed. (I guess I'm much slower than the average bike rider). So I locked the bike at the rack outside the store without realizing that would cost me $2 for parking it at a non-designated spot.

Bookman's

The bookstore was huge with sections dedicated to every category of books. Not only that, they had vinyls, CDs and DVDs. There was another section you could buy used action figures and figurines at half the price. One display case had swords for sale and there was an entire rack of boards games and collectible comic books. I found a book by Anne Rice that I couldn't find anywhere in Pakistan but I didn't buy it because  it was $8 and I was feeling thrifty. (On second thought I should have bought it.) I only spent some 20 minutes there. There was a GoodWill store next door that I thought I'd check out as well but I had to get out fast because it was kind of depressing with the low lighting and damp air. The old furniture and abandoned toys made me feel uncomfortable. 

I didn't want to make another one and a half hour drive so I checked the nearest Grid hub where I could return the bike. Before starting the return journey I ate the Krispy Kreme donut and even though I was starving then it did not live up to the hype. It was an hour half journey to the bike rack and there was a light rail station nearby so that was an added bonus. The ride back was a little tiring because I think I'd pushed my body to the limit but I kept telling myself, just a little while longer and then you'll be free. 

You know that weird feeling when you have been on the cycle too long and your legs are still in motion? Yeah, so my legs felt like jelly and I still had to buy groceries on the way back.

To top it all of my water supply had diminished. At the grocery store I grabbed the things I needed quickly and checked out as soon as I could. Thank God, the bags weren't very heavy. As soon as I got back I jumped into the shower because I was sticky and sweaty. When I checked my phone afterwards, I realized it was a 10-mile bike ride and not what I had planned, but I was pleased with myself for this small achievement!

Old Town Scottsdale

                                                                                              

The main road

One of the souvenir shops

Scottsdale, Arizona is the poshest city in the Phoenix metropolitan area where many influential families and local celebrities live. It is also often mentioned on The Office because Jan Levinson visits her sister there. Scottsdale is said to be the oldest town in the Southwest. They have revived the old Western cowboy vibe by following a certain theme and adding a museum dedicated to that era. I had heard it is one of the must-see places nearby so one day I got on the bus (couldn't find my horse) and rode into town.

I got off on Scottsdale Road and decided to walk a bit to get an idea of where to go first. Because it was 4pm, the museum had already closed so I walked into a street which had a gift shop and souvenir stores. There were shops with Native American paraphernalia such as dreamcatchers, jewelry and weaves. You could also buy Arizona themed gift items like mugs, caps, t-shirts and what not. One particular store had African jewelry and wood carvings and a sign said they were authentic. I knew I wouldn't have enough space in my suitcase for the carvings so I settled for one of the beautiful necklaces. 

I doff my hat only for those worthy of it

The store next door advertised henna tattoos and when I walked in I thought I heard a Strings song and I literally couldn't believe my ears! But then when the next song on the playlist was also Indian I figured it was to keep in with the Henna theme. The display case for another one of the stores was so beautiful, with stuffed animals, Native American headgear and hunting tools. I walked around and looked at all the restaurants and bars from outside. 

Sitting on a bench by the duck pond

There was a park nearby with a beautiful building next to it which on a closer look turned out to be the museum. Lush green grass is not a very common sight in Phoenix so I decided to sit by the duck pond for a while and take it all in. After that I walked up the path and saw an elderly couple sitting with their dog so I said hello to them and asked them if I could pet her. It was giant rescue which they thought to be a golden-retreiver and collie mix. 

I got thirsty soon after so I Googled the nearest coffee shop. It suggested a place named Sip. It was a bar/coffee shop with an outdoor patio and the bartender was extremely good looking. I ordered an iced mocha latte and just took my time to stare at the man preparing my drink (couldn't help myself). I took my drink and decided it was time to head back so I plugged in my headphones, and because the coffee had put me in such a great mood, started singing along to the music. Near the bus stop I saw a man walking towards me and I stopped singing because I felt kind of embarrassed. When he approached me he said "Why'd you stop? You're a good singer" and even though I am sure he hadn't actually heard me, I smiled and thanked him all the same. 

In conclusion, all my lone adventures taught me one thing or another. One of those things is to step out of my comfort zone and do things that scare me. Although, I have to note that on all three occasions I did not tell anyone where I was going and that was really stupid and reckless. I will try to keep up this habit even though I am not sure if I would be comfortable with going on shopping, biking or sightseeing trips all alone in Pakistan but I could join community events even if I do not have anyone to go with. 

So wish me luck!

Light Reading: The Casual Vacancy - J.K. Rowling

Being a major Potterhead I recently reread the entire series and then experienced the usual withdrawal symptoms one does after finishing the books. I wanted to dive into another story and since J.K. Rowling's The Casual Vacancy was already on my list I decided to go ahead and read it. 

Warm blankets + a good book = perfect winter evening

The story follows the interwoven lives of families living in the idyllic village of Pagford and its impoverished suburbs, the Fields. The author gets down to the gritty details on social divide between the privileged and unprivileged. The high and mighty people of Pagford are tired of shouldering the financial burden of the Fields and want nothing to do with the depraved souls who live there hence, a political battle for power ensues. 

Not only does the novel portray the silent war between the rich and poor but it also shows the disconnect between parents and their children because of the latter's resentment and former's refusal to listen. 

The author takes a grim tone throughout the book as there is no battle between good and evil, there is only evil. Rowling does a good job at uncovering the ugly side of human nature and showing what happens behind closed doors. The ending will leave you shocked and empty. I kept wondering about the events that lead up to it and how they all contributed towards what conspired.

It is hard to categorize the book under one genre since some moments read like a YA novel where a teenage boy is pining after the beautiful girl in his class while at times it takes on the tone of a crime/mystery novel keeping the readers turning pages in search for answers.

Toys Galore at The Entertainer, Emporium Mall

The Entertainer is the fastest growing toy retailer in the UK and is slowly making its mark in Pakistan as well. The chain has expanded to five branches across Pakistan with its latest outlet launched at the Emporium Mall, Lahore on Saturday 25th March 2017.

The Store is located on the First Floor of Emporium, Mall (Picture Courtesy Maximus)

The toy store is like no other as it offers genuine products from well-loved international toy brands. I was invited to the grand launch by PR company Maximus Advertisers and jumped at the opportunity to let out my inner child.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the friendly Olaf and the not-so-angry Angry Bird surrounded by a cloud of balloons. The store was decked out in full festive regalia featuring colorful display of toys divided into sections based on their category. A member of the store's staff was whizzing around on a hoverboard, offering little kids a ride.

Angry Bird with a happy child (Picture Courtesy Maximus)

I took my time browsing through every aisle, mentally updating my wishlist. For those who are curious, the final list includes:

1. Buzz Lightyear action figure

2. Storm Trooper mask

3. Shopkins set

4. Nerf gun

5. LEGO Ninjago

No "Aren't you a little short for a Storm Trooper" jokes please!

Face painting, an enthralling magic show and a fun game of Pie Face Challenge were amongst some of the activities planned for the event. A digital photo booth had also been set up where guests could strike a pose and get their picture taken. In celebration of the launch, goody bags were being handed out to the all the little visitors.

My sister trying to build a masterpiece

The SEFAM Group, with its 30 years of experience in retail, decided to bring the established brand to Pakistan after identifying the need for a trusted toy store brand. The Entertainer aims to provide an exciting in-store experience to children and adults alike. The prices may be a bit on the high end but the quality products and unmatched customer service is worth splurging on.

You can learn more by visiting the website: www.thetoyshop.pk/pk or Facebook page at www.facebook.com/entertainerpk

To browse through the store's stock visit www.theentertainer.pk/pk

My Never-Ending Love Affair with Food

I only have two vices; raccoon videos and eating out. 

I love checking out new eateries and I'm always daydreaming about my next meal or compiling lists of places I want to try. So I thought why not jot down some of the greatest hits.

Picture stolen from sister's Instagram

Nutella Milkshake from Happy Ending

The drink is a concoction of nutella topped with heavy whipped cream served in a mason jar with chocolate sauce drizzled on the sides. The milkshake is so rich and luxurious, it is like wearing a warm fur coat on a cold day. I imagine the chocolate river in Willy Wonka's chocolate factory must taste like this.

Another of sister's. She ocassionally takes nice pictures

Banoffee Waffles from The Urban Cafe

The best breakfast I've ever had was at lunch time.The waffles there are soft on the inside and crispy on the outside and the warm toffee syrup poured over sliced bananas is the perfect consistency. Also their serving size is more than generous so that really makes it the breakfast of champions. 

21 inches of goodness

21 Inch Pizza from Manhattan Bites

And how can I forget pizza? The one thing I could eat everyday for the rest of my life. Manhattan bites makes a killer 21 inch monstrosity which is a challenge to eat (I fold it up like roll). I always go for the Manhattan Special which has all the fix-ins including chicken fajita chunks and pepperoni slices. Paired with their southwestern sauce, the pizza makes any ordinary day extraordinary

Heaven CAN'T wait (Source: OmNom)

Heaven Can Wait from OmNom

I only ever order chicken burgers except that one time I tried ostrich meat (it was not bad). So amongst all the burgers I have ever had this delicious juicy chicken burger is the one that stands out. It made me fall in love with honey mustard. It has a succulent patty and fresh vegetables in a soft bun which actually made me say OMNOMNOM. 

Salivating looking at this

Cake Alaska from Jammin' Java

I am always craving something 'sweet to eat' as I often say. So my favourite dessert has to be this chocolatey goodness which is basically two slices of chocolate fudge cake sandwiching a scoop of vanilla ice-cream and drowning in a pool of chocolate sauce. Doesn't that sound heavenly?

Everything I've had here so far was perfect!

Fiery Red Dragon Chicken from The Rice Bowl

I was skeptical about this place because it is hard to find good Chinese food. However, the spicy chicken gravy coupled with chowmein and rice was a treat for my taste buds. You can tell by the name it was super spicy and had plenty of delectable chicken and veggies. My friend had the Sweet and Sour Crispy Chicken which was equally yum!

Y-U-M

Belgian Molten Lava Cake from Sweet Tooth

For me the ice-cream that accompanies the molten lava cake is just as important and sweet tooth had the yummiest vanilla ice-cream ever. The lava is made of Belgian chocolate and hits just the right spot. It is hands down the best molten lava cake I've had so far. 

Visually appealing right? (Source: The Lahore Social)

Tortellini Pasta from The Lahore Social

I don't usually like alfredo sauce; it's always too creamy or too doughy so imagine my surprise when this pasta's sauce was the perfect consistency. The dish looked very appealing as well with colourful tortellini, fresh mushrooms and sprigs of coriander arranged tatsefully.

Perfection

   
                                                               

Chocolate Malt Cake from Nando's
A soft and rich sponge that melts in your mouth slathered in delicious malt frosting is the reason this cake is hardly ever available at the restaurant. It is the perfect way to end the meal.

Ugh I knew it was a bad idea to write this down on an empty stomach. Luckily, there's chicken tikka for lunch at the office today. Until the next time I eat something nommy, good bye!

High Up Above and Down Below

Today I'm going to share the story of my two-day hiking trip to Azad Kashmir. 

(Oh and yes, the title is a Coldplay reference. I understand I could have used Adventure of a Lifetime but I'm saving that for something bigger.)

Day 1, 6 a.m.

You would think it was a bad idea for my first college trip to be full of intense physical activity but it wasn't like that at all. I  must admit I was almost on the brink of throwing up on our way to Muzaffarad but I held my own by taking small sips of Sting and listening to Noori. When we stopped at Kohala Bridge for a bathroom break, I had to take a moment to stop shaking but the pleasant cool weather and gorgeous sunrise over the mountains cured me of the motion sickness. 

At Jehlum River, overlooking the Kohala Bridge

Day 1, 10 a.m.

Our captain soon realized that letting us check-in before breakfast was a terrible idea. We were supposed to freshen up and come down to eat in half an hour but that was out of the question with 4 girls sharing a single bathroom and mirror. 

Day 1, 2 p.m.

The first stop was Zalzal lake. A water body created by a a major landslide following the 2005 earthquake. The actual lake is a 90 minute descent from where our bus was parked. Before leaving our driver warned us to beware of crocodiles swimming in the lake. He highlighted the warning with a video of two suspiciously Chinese looking girls being gobbled up by a CGI lake monster. 

15 minutes in, I became aware of the fact that it was a bad idea for me to hold a water bottle in my hand while attempting to climb down the precarious, rocky terrain. Thankfully, a chivalrous fellow offered to keep my bottle in his knapsack. 

The lake appeared to be some sort of mirage, no matter how far we went it didn't seem to get any nearer. But after two hours of slipping and a little sliding, we made it to our destination.

Down, down, down

Day 1, 4 p.m.

We barely had two hours of wading, swimming and even fishing in the cool water when the trek leader called for us to begin climbing back up. That's the downside of short trip, you're always running on a tight schedule. Surprisingly the ascent was much easier even with gravity acting against us. We did get a little lost but the cute little local kids came to our rescue by guiding us back to our bus. 

On returning to the bus, we found the driver near tears as his mobile phone had been stolen. He suspected the local teens who were loitering near the vehicle of nicking it. When we complained to the kids' father, he picked up a heavy stick to give them the most brutal beating I've ever witnessed live. The boys all scampered to the hills with their tails between their legs.

Zalzaal Lake, Chakar

Day 1, 7 p.m.

After chai and pakoras at a dhabba we returned to the hotel for a little R&R (read: charge our phones and cameras). Only after lying down on the bed did a massive headache strike, forcing me to skip dinner. You have to remember I was functioning on zero hours of sleep in the last 36 hours. I took an hour-long power nap and woke up feeling a lot better; just in time for a trip to the bazaar. And some kind soul had saved me a plate of biryani and seekh kebabs. Yay!

Day 2, 5 a.m.

Wake-up call was at dawn and we were all drowsy and grumbling. After a long session of giggles and gossip with the roomies we had finally quieted down at 2 a.m. to go to sleep.

The view from Sangam Hotel which is named so because it is situated at a point where the Neelum and Jehlum river meet. 

Day 2, 10 a.m.
We arrived at the base of Pir Chinasi, the shrine of a revered saint situated at 10,000 feet above sea-level. Even though this trek had a paved road, it was a massively steep ascent. You could feel each step right up to your thighs. I have no idea where the adrenaline rush came from because I powered through and managed to stay in the lead with a few others 

(with frequent breaks to sit down, breathe and drink copious amounts of water, of course). 

Day 2, 12 p.m.
It turned out I made that tiresome journey for nothing because right outside the shrine in big bold letters was a sign saying Auraton ka daakhla mana'a hai (Women are prohibited from entering). Not that it affected me; I don't really believe in that stuff. The scenic view with the snowy Himalayas as the backdrop was totally worth it.

Pir Chinasi's shrine

Day 2, 3 p.m.

We only spent an hour at the top, most of which was utilized having chai and the most scrumptious aloo pakoras ever. While we were being rushed to head back, I completely forgot to buy mementos from the stall outside the darbar. I was amongst the first ones to reach the bottom which gave me and my friends time to take more pictures. 

The Himalyan Range

Day 2, 8 p.m.

We stopped at a restaurant in Lala Musa for dinner which was actually not bad. The journey back was entertaining with games of Antakshari and hilarious dance performances. But soon a feeling of melancholy set over the bus when realization struck that our two exciting days with new friends were coming to an end.

All in all, it was the perfect getaway right before finals. Even though, we were so strapped for time that we couldn't even stop to take pictures at certain points. And everyone basically passed out for 12+ hours as soon as they got home, skipping all classes. Also legs were sore fore at least 3 days after the trip.

But I would gladly relive those two days over again.